矜貴魚骹　一啖一大牛

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com//images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb1pnew.jpg[/img]

一口牛周街有得食，一口「大牛」你又食過未？入口即溶金槍魚魚骹，一忽仔重 330g叫價高達$3,000，喂喂喂……明明係魚，何解叫牛？因為一忽仔切開大概得六件，均除每件五百大元，仲唔係一隻「大牛」？擺入口唔好咁快 KO佢，嗒清嗒楚先好啟動舌頭，送入喉嚨！

[size=20pt][b]掃入極罕威士忌[/size][/b]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb19p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■山崎 18年威士忌，已經唔再出口，香港更係飲一支少一支，$2,980。[/size]

「穴藏日本料理」在港有三間分店，中環蘭桂坊分店面積唔算大，坐滿可容納約七十人，不過室雅何須大？寧靜環境與優雅裝修，坐得人舒舒服服，十八呎海鮮吧枱有氣勢，枱後掛有歷代日本首相素描畫像，政客笑容畫得幾假都好，但望落順眼，試想像入一間中式餐館，餐館最當眼處掛上省委書記、鐵路部長甚至煲呔曾個大頭樣，我諗我即時取消 Booking走人都似。一列窗面向德己立街，傍晚時分華燈初上，配襯室內點點柔和燈光，正好培養悠閒心情，等味蕾做好準備，迎接矜貴美食。
未上菜前，先參觀酒櫃內一堆日本名酒，山崎 18年威士忌最叫我眼前一亮，現今僅限日本內銷，早排香港出現過十二支，已被「穴藏」大手掃清，相當矜貴罕有，用雪梨木酒桶釀製，有別一般橡木酒桶咁俗酒味，入口更兼具奶油、蜂蜜同極輕微朱古力味，味道層次相當豐富，若以一比五混和清水呷入口，更加能夠凸顯雪梨木香味。

[size=20pt][b]細細嚿一開六[/size][/b]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb2p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■有理由相信 Hazel專登 NG，博食多件金槍魚魚骹。[/size]

「穴藏日本料理」本身主打高級天婦羅，今日咁啱有另一超矜貴美食──九州長崎金槍魚魚骹返貨，當然要試。只見總廚 Eric捧出一大嚿魚骹，連骨重 1kg，輕輕拖兩刀，只切下約手掌咁大 Size嘅嫩肉部份，重量大約 330g，雖然輕過一包維他 375，但售價卻高達$3,000！為保留咬口， Eric唔會慳住切，呢 330g嫩肉部份只可切出六至七件刺身，除開即係每件$500。一條重 150kg嘅金槍魚，只得左右兩邊魚骹，梗矜貴啦，想食？唔該早兩日預訂。
金槍魚魚骹優勝之處，係雪花分佈細密，肥得嚟無筋兼勁重魚味，最重要係未經急凍，即日新鮮運到，魚脂唔會雪到過硬，就算厚切一塊，同樣入口即溶，嗒落似粒糖，不停散發好濃好甘香嘅鮮魚味，當你想起佢身價不凡，自不然會畀心機慢慢𡁻，嗒到佢盡方罷休。錄影嗰陣，模特兒 Hazel要拍一個試食鏡頭，一向口齒伶俐嘅佢將五嚿水一啖擺落口，一臉滿足，但一開口居然食螺絲 NG，我焗住話：「唔緊要……你……食多一嚿啦，補多個鏡頭啦……」 Hazel鬼馬地一笑，呢一刻我好小人之心，懷疑佢扮口吃，實情貪吃。

[size=20pt][b]天婦羅逐件炸[/size][/b]
[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb12p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■ Eric嫌工作未夠忙，連毛蟹都親自幫客人拆埋肉。[/size]

試完矜貴魚骹，終於輪到 Eric最拿手嘅天婦羅上場，同樣好味到爆。
Eric出身於「見城日本料理」，亦喺「稻菊」工作六年，連唐唐、梁朝偉都試過佢手勢，可算名人大廚。佢對所有食材同製法都琅琅上口，活像一本料理大字典，為人無半點架子，絕對係吹水良伴，鍾意玩「 Omakase」，即「廚師發辦」，跟食客邊傾偈邊即製菜式，單係呢份誠意，已經贏過一堆高級食府幾條街。
Eric偏好用混合小麥粉嘅薄炸漿做天婦羅，必須即製即食，否則一擺耐咗，成件天婦羅就會「塌陷」兼無口感，佢堅持食一件整一件，唔會一大盤拎出嚟攤到凍晒。唔好睇小呢份堅持，每次炮製一件天婦羅，都不厭其煩重新打漿撈麪粉，務求保留蛋漿內有充份氣泡，真係少啲 Heart都唔掂。
試食過蟹箝海膽天婦羅、帶子海膽天婦羅，原來日式炸物唔係事必 Heavy，薄薄一層脆皮，咬落唔會滿口油，帶出香味又不失海鮮鮮味，勁！天婦羅屬日式料理炸物中最考師傅功架嘅一瓣， Eric無乜獨門秘技，唔係話佢無料到，而係油溫高低、粉漿厚薄同時間火候全靠經驗掌握，為達到心水偏好嘅 185℃油溫，[節錄...]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb15p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■帶子海膽天婦羅，海膽質感滑溜，帶子極鮮味，$78。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb16p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■蟹箝海膽天婦羅，薄脆蛋漿非常香口，同時不失蟹肉同海膽鮮味，$88。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb13p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■約 500g北海道毛蟹，原隻拆埋蟹肉上枱，啱晒我等懶人，$850。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb14p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■鱈場蟹屬北海道四大蟹之一，鱈場蟹蟹腳天婦羅相當啖啖肉，$280。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb18p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■澳洲 Coffin Bay生蠔，中間為附送嘅伴食清酒，半打$198。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb17p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]■秋刀魚刺身，魚味濃郁，絲毫不覺半點腥味，$280。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb7p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]a.大大嚿金槍魚魚骹，只切最嫩部份（紅圈），約 330g索價$3,000。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb6p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]c.金槍魚魚骹四件$2,000[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb9p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]b.魚骹邊切邊漏油，魚香好澎湃，呢一切，五嚿水 o架嘞。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb3p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]d.裝修典雅環境寧靜，配柔和燈光，坐得好舒服。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb4p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]e.牆壁掛上歷代日本首相畫像，別具風格。[/size]

[img]http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/images/apple-photos/apple_sub/20110729/large/29fb5p.jpg[/img]
[size=8pt]f. 設有兩間 VIP房，更可打通成二十人大房。[/size]

穴藏日本料理
地址：中環德己立街 2-18號業豐大廈 2樓 208-209號

來源:蘋果日報網站

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